Sure, they will!  But you want to make sure your motorhome is winter-ready.  The obvious thing is to make sure the engine oil is the appropriate weight, but you also need to check the electrical system.

In cold weather, engine lubricants don’t flow as freely as when it’s warm, so starting the engine becomes more difficult.  Also, lead-acid storage batteries become less efficient when they’re colder, so it’s important to make sure they’re fully charged.  Using a “smart” charger is a good idea, since normal battery chargers can overcharge and evaporate the battery electrolyte.  A smart charger will stop when the battery is charged and keep it at a maintenance level.

Also, be on the alert for sulfate crystal buildup on the battery’s lead plates.  You can buy smart chargers that have the added benefit of preventing sulfate crystal buildup.

However, no kind of charger will help you out if your battery hasn’t been maintained in other ways.  Battery terminal claps need to be tight and free of corrosion.  Cell caps should be removed if possible to check on the electrolyte level; it should be up to the split ring.  If it’s not, refill with distilled water.

Attending to these basic wintertime maintenance issues will make the process of selling your motorhome in the winter go that much smoother!

]]> http://sellmyrvtoday.com/blog/to-sell-my-motorhome-in-the-winter/feed/ 0 http://sellmyrvtoday.com/blog/flat-tires-wont-sell-my-motorhome/ http://sellmyrvtoday.com/blog/flat-tires-wont-sell-my-motorhome/#comments Tue, 01 Dec 2009 05:00:13 +0000 author http://sellmyrvtoday.com/blog/?p=19 It’s true; selling my motorhome would be pretty tough if it came complete with fat tires.  To avoid that deflating situation, I’m going to take steps to ensure that my tire maintenance is all up to date—if you too are trying to sell your motorhome, you should check out the following tips too—especially if your RV has been out of service for a while.

Tires should really be checked once a month, whether you’re planning to use the vehicle soon or not.  You should check inflation when the tires are cold, since the heat generated while driving will raise the air pressure, temporarily, up higher than the advisable cold inflation pressure.  Don’t ever bleed air from a hot tire—this could cause hazardously low tire pressure.

Due to the likely inaccuracy of gas station air towers, you should always have your own tire gauge, calibrated to 120 psi.

You probably know this, but it’s not bad information to pass on to the new owner:  never overload your motorhome, as that is a primary cause of tire failure.  The maximum inflation and load capacity information can be found molded into the sidewall.  If your motorhome was built after 1972, it will also have a certification label that will tell you Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR) for each of your vehicle’s axles, tire size, and the recommended cold air inflation pressure.

This information can also be located in the owner’s manual, or you can consult a tire dealer.  Even if you don’t need this information right now, it could be a question that will come up as you’re going through the selling process, and it’s always good to know as much as possible to answer questions of potential buyers!